« Travel: August 2003 | Main | Travel: October 2003 »

September 28, 2003

The Role He Was Born to Play

You tend to watch a lot of television when you're cooped up in a French industrial park and the nearest village is a 30-minute walk away. Consequently, I gleaned a lot of valuable insights into European cable programming. Surprise, surprise, it's exactly like US cable programming; reruns of bad comedies, too much news, sports, and game shows. So much for the average american's perception of the French as a bunch of effete, intellectual snobs reclining languidly on the divan, munching escargots, while they watch Jean Cocteau films on the telly. Instead, I was treated to such dubbed american fare as: Daria, Star Trek, Hogan's Heroes, and Married With Children. Granted, those last three were all on the German-language channel.

Hogan's Heroes dubbed in German, how weird is that? I guess they love those wacky, bumbling Nazis as much as we do. Al Bundy of Married, With Children has become something of a folk hero in Germany, appearing on everything from T-shirts to (presumably) dirty underwear. Star Trek auf Deutsch is a particular treat:

Spock: "Das würde ziemlich unlogisch sein"

McCoy: "Verdammt Jim, bin ich ein Doktor nicht ein Wunderarbeiter!"

Kirk: "Schpock, hilf mir, SSSSCHPOOOOCK!"

One night, I happened to catch a live-action film version of French comic-book superstars Asterix and Obelix, featuring none other than hygienically challenged, cheese-eating surrender monkey, Gerard Depardieu as the dimwitted Gaul strongman, Obelix. They must've saved a fortune by hiring an actor who didn't require elaborate fat padding. The film reviews (at least the ones in English that I could read) were uniformly negative.

Trip Pics of Tryptichs

I arrived back home last night and am not too much the worse for wear from my journeys despite the inevitable jet lag.

I uploaded some digital photos of Milan and Paris from my trip. They're mostly standard, postcard-ish shots of various touristy locales.

I also uploaded the reliquary photos from the Louvre that I mentioned in a previous entry. They came out rather blurry. I probably should've used a flash, but I feel like such a tourist when I take flash pictures in a museum, and it seems rude to the other patrons.

Finally, I scanned in a postcard of the statue of San Bartolomeo in the Milan Duomo. Note how he's wearing his flayed skin like a bath towel. Lovely.

September 22, 2003

Beyond the Val de Bievre

Salut, mes amies! I'm now on the final leg of l'excursion Grande. This week finds me enjoying the bucolic pleasures of a Holiday Inn located in a French industrial park called Jouy en Josas in a river valley known as Val de Bievre; one of my colleagues told me that means "Valley of the Beavers", but I think he was just yanking my daisy since Babelfish translates "Beavers" as "Castors". Anyone who's fluent in French, feel free to let me know what a "Bievre" is and I'll be forever grateful.

In any case, Jouy en Josas has little, if anything, to recommend it outside of some pretty scenery, so I found my way by train to Paris on Sunday to do some looking around. As with Milan, I stuck to well-known tourists sites beginning with Notre Dame. The joint was packed with Japanese and Korean tourists, so I beat a hasty retreat.

Next stop was the Louvre which is just a vast, unmanageable sprawl of poorly laid out galleries. Impossible to see everything, so I concentrated on trying to find the specific things that interested me; the collection of Greek, Etruscan, and Roman antiquities, followed by this cool gallery of Oceanic art. I think the guy here on the right may be a long-lost cousin of the Goof.

The Louvre also has a superb collection of medieval art that includes quite a few reliquaries. I snapped a bunch of pictures which I'll put up online once I locate a @#$@# driver for my USB card reader.

Oh yeah, I got to view the Mona Lisa from about 20 feet away, trying to see over the heads of a bunch of Japanese and Koreans furiously snapping flash pictures. Sorry, but I don't see what the big deal is; it's a nice painting, but I'll take a gallery full of cool, enigmatic Rothkos over her little smirk any day.

From that point on, my day became something of a death march. I rode the Metro to the Tour Eiffel, then walked back to my starting point with stops at the Hôtel National des Invalides, and Place de la Concorde. I ended my day with a stroll along the Seine where I searched fruitlessly for non-tacky souvenirs to bring home. By the time I got back to the hotel, my feet felt like they were swollen enough to fill a pair of clown shoes.

The rest of my week will likely be devoid of any further sightseeing, although I may attempt to escape to nearby Versailles, schedule permitting.

The Devil Wears Prada, Jesus Wears Armani

Those of you who've come to expect somewhat offbeat travelogues from me may be a tad disappointed by my next couple of entries. Due to several mitigating factors, unfamiliarity with Italy and France, lack of any proficiency in said languages, and the poor quality of the guide books I purchased (Lonely Planet sucks!*), I stuck pretty much to the standard tourist itineraries for both Milan and Paris.

I had Friday off, so I spent the day hoofing it through Milan. Several disappointments were in store for me, beginning with the fact that the facade of the Duomo was completely covered in scaffolding. However, I did take a long stroll through the gigantic interior. It was fascinating to be in a cathedral that was in use as an actual house of worship and not just a tourist attraction. I was pleased to find the remains of several Tupperware[TM] saints on display, wearing silver masques and encased in crystal coffins like Catholic Snow Whites waiting to be awakened by the kiss of Pope Charming the XVI. The rather gruesome statue of St. Bartholomew sans flesh was also quite interesting, Google failed to provide me with the actual image, but this should give you a general idea. Afterwards, I had a climb the steps up to the roof of the cathedral to get a better view of the statue-studded spires, then crossed the Piazza to view the wonders of the cathedral treasury.

Being the opera buff that I am, I felt that a pilgrimage to La Scala was a religious obligation, but sadly it was closed for restoration, so I must spend a few more years in purgatory before the gates of Verdi Heaven finally open for me.

Another station of the cross included a walk around the Quadrilatero d'Oro (Golden Quadrangle), Milan's hub of haute couture that has one of the world's densest concentration of designer fashion outlets. I didn't buy anything due to the generally outrageous prices (this ain't a spot for bargain hunting) but window shopping is still free and the opportunity to watch anorexic, overtanned fashion victims tottering around the cobblestone streets on 9-inch bondage heels was priceless.

*- I mean, c'mon, how can you publish a guide book for Milan that has no map of the Underground? And the French travel phrases section of the Parisian guidebook provides no phonetic pronunciation! A hostile Letter to the Editor is forthcoming from Yours Truly!

September 16, 2003

Hold the Crunchy Frogs, Please

Ciao, Goofites. I'm pretty busy here in Milan. I haven't had any real opportunities for sightseeing or picture taking yet, but some of my Italian colleagues took me out for dinner last night at a small rustic restaurant along the Ticino River in Pavia called l'ustaria di Giügatòn (roughly translated: Drunkard's Tavern).

I consumed mass quantities of sparkling red wine out of white china cups and ate a wide variety of delicious local specialties. However, I passed on one dish...Risotto con le rane...which as near as I could tell, consisted of creamed rice sprinkled with tiny little whole frogs. I also tried Grappa, a liquor distilled from grapes, for the first time. I was surprised at how much I liked it since most non-Italians I know who've tried it, hate the stuff.

September 13, 2003

Buongiorno Milano, Bonjour Paris

Time to hit the road again. I fly to Milan for a week, then on to Paris. Since both locales are well known for their connections to the fashion industry, I'm dubbing it "Mr. Bali Hai's Couture Roadshow. I've never been to either city, so I'll be taking my camera along and publishing the pictures here on the Goof.

Milan is also known as the city where Mussolini was executed.

September 7, 2003

Flying Rant

I'm back in the States for a brief interlude in between trips. I head to Milan next.

I left Pangbourne yesterday morning for Gatwick and found the place just packed to the rafters. I've never seen an airport that crowded, not even O'Hare at Thanksgiving. Since my elite flier's status on NorthWorst Disorient Airlines has expired, I wound up standing in line for 30 minutes waiting to check in while some fat tatooed girl who looked like Kelly Osbourne kept flirtily sticking her pierced tongue out at me. Ick. Finally, when I was about to give up all hope, a security guard approached and asked me if I'd be willing to undergo a baggage search which would allow me to jump the queue. Of course I said yes, hallelujah Jesus, yes!

Some bored and slightly disgusted looking woman did a perfunctionary reshuffling of my dirty socks and underwear, and I was up at the front of the line in 2 minutes. Meanwhile, I was bemused to see an Iranian man with a full beard and wearing classic holy-warrior/religious-police get-up make his way through the line without so much as a sideways glance from security. But no doubt if he were a terrorist, he'd be tripped up by those fiendishly clever questions that the security officers at Gatwick still quiz you with:

"Did you pack your bags yourself?"

"Yes"

"Did anyone give you anything to carry on board?"

"Yes...I mean NO! Curse you, and your fiendishly clever questions, infidel dogs! By the beard of the Prophet, you have caught me, how you say? Red-handed!"

To be fair, he was on my flight and only tried to hijack the plane once...right after they announced that "Down With Love" and "Kangaroo Jack" would be the in-flight movies.

I made my way through the security checkpoint, held up only briefly while some Nigerian guy spent 5 or 6 minutes emptying out all of the pockets of his dashiki. I kept waiting for him to produce a small goat or chicken from within it's smelly folds.

After waiting about 30 minutes at the designated gate, I noticed that our flight no longer appeared on the monitors. This did not bode well. After a few minutes, someone came over and told me that my plane had been changed. I made my way to the new gate which required me to pass yet again through security! I made it to the gate just as they were beginning boarding.

Thanks to my fucked company's wonderfully stupid policy of buying only non-upgradable tickets on international flights, my journey home was spent squeezed into a tiny aisle seat in the center row of a DC-10. The annoying loud yobbos in the adjacent seats kept climbing over top of me to reach the aisle. Apparently, asking politely that I stand up and let them pass was too much trouble. The couples behind me talked incessantly and very loudly during the film and kept grabbing my headrest whenever they stood up. I could hear them clearly through my earplugs. The lager lout in the next seat over kept playing elbow hockey with me in an attempt to hog my portion of the armrest. No one paid any attention whatsoever to the Fasten Seatbelts sign.

Say what you want about the Ugly American on holiday, but I think the average Brit has them beat for sheer unpleasantness. Insert obligatory Monty Python quote about "bleeding pints of bleeding Watney's Red Barrel" here.

We were served two meals on the flight, some sort of vegetable pasta and a slice of pizza that smelled like the dog's business and tasted like dirt, both were completely inedible.

I finally landed, passed through Customs, and waited 30 minutes for my bag to show up, it was the very last one off the plane.

I can't wait to do this all again next Saturday.

September 2, 2003

If It's Tuesday, This Must Be Pangbourne

Ah, another glorious morning here in Pangbourne-on-Thames (AKA POT). I'm watching the aforementioned river of song and legend flow majestically past the window of my room here at the Weir View.

I had an exhausting weekend in London, I wore my feet down to stubs walking through the British Museum, Tate Modern, National Portrait Gallery, and National Gallery, along with a handful of assorted cathedrals. I also hooked up with my friend Steve, and dined at both the ultra-trendy Wagamama and the London Trader Vic's.

As always, the other museums paled in contrast to the riches on display at the British Museum. Of particular interest to me was the special exhibit, Medicine Man: The Forgotten Museum of Henry Wellcome which featured all the things I love the most; shrunken heads, masks, gruesome turn-of-the-century medical implements, and artificial limbs.