Last night I made one final excursion into downtown Munich to do some shopping and sightseeing. First, I strolled around the Viktualienmarkt, a large, open-air market filled with stalls of fresh fruit, vegetables, and lots of touristy crap. All of the guidebook descriptions of this place would lead you to believe that the stalls are presided over by fat Bavarian grandmothers who'd as soon bash you over the head with a beer mug than sell you a radish. Unfortunately (or fortunately), they seem to have all retired and been replaced by their comely daughters, or by swarthy Greek men.

Next, I ventured into the Frauenkirche, where I paid my respects to the black marble tomb of Prince Elector Kurfürst Maximilian I, and viewed the fearsome Teufelstritt (Devil's Footprint). Hmm, I always figured his feet would be rounder and more cloven.

When I left the church, I came across a bustling restaurant called Nuremberger Bratwurst Glockl Am Dom. I'd been to Nuremberg about 12 years ago, and I'd never pass up another chance to partake of those teensy and oh-so-tasty little weiners served on tin plates again. I seated myself at an empty table on the patio, and a cheerful waitress in a black dirndl soon had me drinking a half-liter Augustiner and munching on a pile of delectable little rostwurst'l, homemade potato salad, and a basket of soft bretzels. I felt like that dog in the commercial running around growling, "Snausages? Snausages?"

Well, it's time for me to say goodbye to the Land of Lederhosen. I had a swell time here in Bavaria. I'm heading to London now. Hope the lights have come back on.